Welcome to Delhi, Again

Cars. And bikes. And motorcycles. And Autos. Everywhere.

After three busy days of interviews, block printing, Ubers, and, of course, sitting in traffic, it was time to pack up our gear one last time to head back to Delhi. Side note: My concerns about the food in India never came to fruition and I surprisingly quite enjoyed the various (and copious amounts of) Indian food I consumed. That said, I can honestly say I don’t know/remember the actual name of anything I ate … well, other than naan. But what I really learned is that there’s a HUGE difference between real Indian food and the North American version of said cuisine.

Our flight from Bangalore to Delhi was at 11:30 AM which meant there was plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast before being shuttled off to the airport once again. However, once at the airport, things didn’t go entirely without incident.

In keeping with the apparent randomness that frequently goes with the rules regarding baggage, our bags that were deemed acceptable for check-in on the flight to Bangalore were deemed to be WAY too heavy for the flight back. This of course made no sense but neither did trying to get an explanation. Our options were to either pay a fee for the now “excess” weight or upgrade (for a lesser fee) to Premium Economy which would allow the heavier bag. As you would expect, we went for the lesser fee option (which happened to come with more leg room). Fortunately, that was the only incident of the day.

We were back in Delhi on Sunday (the 25th) and the following day we had another day of sightseeing before embarking on the long flight trip back to North America (again via Heathrow). While our first tour in Delhi was interesting enough, tour number two was by far more enjoyable.

The first stop of the day was Qutb Minar which seems to have a variety of possible spellings including Qutab and Qutub … obviously, I’ve opted for Qutb. Regardless of the spelling, had we not seen anything after Qutb Minar it still would’ve been the best tour of the trip. Such an incredible site. Granted, I tend to be partial to ruins so that likely had a BIT to do with my enjoyment level.

Anyway, I’ll let the Photo Gallery put a wrap on this entry. Once again, for better or worse there’s no shortage of photos in this gallery.

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Block Printing 101

Padmini’s place

After a few long days of travel and less long days of sightseeing, the next few days were dedicated to getting some work done on the actual reason we were in India. That reason being block printing. If you’re wondering, “What’s block printing?” … well, so was I.

Much like when we started work on our Lucy Has Worms documentary (where I had no knowledge whatsoever of silkworms), I was once again starting at zero when it came to knowing anything about our subject matter. That said, block printing is basically the hand printing of patterns onto fabric using hand-carved wood blocks. And we were in Bangalore to meet with Padmini Govind to learn more about her, her block printing project (which her mother started many years ago), her company, and her efforts to run an international fair trade textile business. And that’s what we did. However, you’ll have to wait for the documentary to find out what we learned. And that’s what they call a teaser!

Suffice it to say, I learned a quite a bit in a short period of time and we interviewed significantly more people than I expected – especially considering we were really there just to scout out the project. We even got to try our hand at block printing which, dare I say, was pretty successful. As a bonus, we even got to keep a small block as a souvenir – which was carved while we there.

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Welcome to Bangalore

Gage and I in print

Our travel day to Bangalore started early. VERY early. We spent the previous day touring Varanasi and seeing some great sites. Somehow, Gage and I even ended up in a photo in one of the local newspapers – autographs available upon request. The tour was supposed to end with a visit to a candle ceremony along the river before a torrential downpour washed out that plan. However, our guide offered to take us to a similar ceremony that started early the next morning. Considering we didn’t know when we might be back here again, we thought that was a good plan. As such, our day started around 4:00 AM.

Following the ceremony, we were promptly taken back to the hotel for a quick breakfast before heading back to the airport for our flight back to Delhi and then on to Bangalore.

My first impression of Bangalore was that it reminded me a LOT of Nairobi. That first impression was heavily based on the traffic we experienced on the way to the hotel. And the subsequent traffic experiences did nothing to change that impression. Seriously. The roads DO have lane markings but I’m not entirely sure why. The cars sort of acknowledge them but the motorcycles are constantly lane splitting through what little space the cars may leave between each other. It’s more than a little ridiculous – although, I think Nairobi was still worse. If it was North America, the entire scene would be a continuous road rage incident waiting to happen (except for the “waiting to happen” part). And I’ve never heard such a liberal use of horns as cars and motorcycles weave their way through the most minimal of openings. The crazy thing is, it all kind of actually works. Sort of. I mean, well … ok, I retract that statement. It’s chaos.

Fortunately, among the chaos was a seemingly endless supply of taxis, ubers, and autos (short for auto-rickshaw). Uber proved to be incredibly useful as it (mostly) eliminated the language challenges that could have otherwise hindered our efforts of getting from A to B or क से ख, as the case may be. And no, I don’t really know how accurate that Hindi translation is but I tried.

Roughing it (again).
This time at The Bangalore Club.

We actually wanted to try one of the autos but our lone attempt to arrange such transport was more than a little unsuccessful. The driver (or, more accurately, the pimp-like character through whom we were trying to arrange said auto rickshaw transportation) was clearly trying to take advantage of our tourist status by insisting they take us to a few shops en route back to the hotel (and charging more than Uber in the process). After insisting we weren’t interested in said shops we finally just walked away and booked an Uber.

Once again, there are more than a few photos in the photo gallery. None of which are actually of Bangalore – those will come later. This gallery contains all things Varanasi. Well, maybe not ALL things … but some things.

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Welcome To Delhi

Roughing it in the airport lounge in Philly

My plan to post a few (or even one) update during my India excursion didn’t exactly (or remotely) come to pass. It’s not that I didn’t THINK about it on more than one occasion but I simply didn’t have time. Seriously. It was actually remarkable how little spare time there was to be had. Although, I guess it’s not all that remarkable considering our days were filled with documentary related activities (and a bit of sightseeing) and my evenings/nights were consumed by working on a second video project that suddenly needed to get done. No rest for the wicked.

Anyway, enough with the excuses. On with the India update.

Gage and I spent the bulk of my one spare day (August 14th) in Philadelphia gathering and sorting through the inventory of gear we had at our disposal and then determining what we actually needed to take with us. Considering how poorly I do at limiting the load while on the bike, I feel we managed to keep our gear kit compact. Well, somewhat compact anyway.

Our route from Philly to India was a 2-leg journey with the first leg ending at Heathrow Airport in London and the second leg ending in Delhi, India.

Editing at 41,000′ over the Black Sea. Kind of cool.

With the first leg of the journey being a seven hour flight, I originally thought I could at least type up one blog update but that plan fizzled as I found myself with some editing that I needed to start – and finish – sooner rather than later. In that regard, I was successful. That success was aided by the fact that I unexpectedly found myself (with Gage) sitting in Business Class for the first time in my life. I learned of this unexpected upgrade upon my arrival in Philly and, while I’m still not EXACTLY sure of the specifics, the unexpected Business Class seating was directly related to the fact that Gage and I were piggybacking on Jack’s (i.e., Gage’s husband) business trip. Anyway, to say that the spacious seating of those Business Class pods was very conducive to getting work done would be a significant understatement. While most (maybe even all) of the cabin slept through the flight, I worked the entire time. Admittedly, I was enjoying it more than I probably should have – novelty experiences are funny that way. The only downside was I didn’t get to make use of the bed into which my seat was able to transform. Yes, that’s DEFINITELY a First World problem.

We arrived in London around 7:00 AM local time and had a three hour layover before our nine hour flight to Delhi. Said layover also passed surprisingly quickly … spending it in the British Airways Business Class lounge likely helped with that. At this rate, this whole experience could ruin future air travel for me forever!

The bed that I wasn’t able to make use of during the flight to Heathrow was very much put to use on the way to Delhi. As a result, it was by far the easiest nine hour flight of my life. Being able to stretch out and sleep COMFORTABLY for close to seven hours helped with that. Obviously.

Our itinerary upon arriving in Delhi was certainly a fast paced one. We arrived in Delhi around 11:00 PM where Gage, Jack, and I and were promptly shuttled off to our hotel for the night. The following morning we embarked on one day of sightseeing in Delhi before flying off to Varanasi one day later for another day of sightseeing. From there it was back to Delhi where Jack continued on to his conference while Gage and I boarded yet another plane – this one bound for Bangalore.

Warning: There are a LOT of photos in the photo gallery.

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Now Boarding: SLC to PHL

My luck on this trip thus far has definitely skewed to the “Good” side of the scale. There’s been a complete lack of flat tires or broken spokes (although, that’s likely more attributable to good gear than good luck but luck doesn’t hurt), the rain has mostly fallen in the non-riding hours, I’ve had MANY more than expected days with a tailwind or no wind, and I’ve met a lot of great and generous people along the way. In that last regard, Joe and Christy definitely continue that trend. Particularly memorable since it was just a fortuitous coincidence that I met Joe at Devils Tower.

My 9:59 departure actually was closer to an 11:15 departure

From the moment I arrived at Joe and Christy’s place I was welcomed generously by the whole family. I really enjoyed having dinner with them and chatting into the evening. Just really great and interesting people. Their generosity extended even further last night when Joe offered to drive me to the airport rather than take an alternate form of transportation.

Said drive to the airport went well and I arrived at my gate with plenty of time to spare. Just as I like it.

In fact, despite the aforementioned good luck, I actually ended up having even more time to spare than expected as my detour to India got off to a slightly rough start when my flight from Salt Lake City to Philadelphia was delayed for about 40 minutes. After that, there was a bit of a backup on the runway before we were finally cleared for takeoff. That said, my arrival in Philadelphia ended up only being about 30 minutes late – I think the pilots were speeding to make up some time. I had no problems with that.

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