A Delayed Departure Moorhead, MN to Little Yellowstone Park, ND
With my first day off officially behind me, I was ready to hit the road again with the goal being a campground about 125 km to the west. I didn’t get the earliest start to the day but I was ready to go around 8:30 AM. That’s when the day’s plan changed a bit.
As I loaded my final bag onto my bike, I happened to notice a small white spot on the tread of my front tire. In actuality, it wasn’t so much a small white spot ON my tire but a small hole IN the tire which revealed the white liner underneath. My keen deductive reasoning skills led me to the conclusion that that wasn’t good. I’m so smart sometimes. I was going to need a bike shop. Fortunately, there were a couple of options in Fargo.
Well, I SAY there were a couple of options but I couldn’t find the first one (you know, the one that opened at 9:00 AM) so I had to continue on to the one that opened at 10:00 AM (aka. Great Northern Bicycle Co.). All things considered, that turned out ok. Yes, I found myself sitting in front of said bike shop for about 30 minutes waiting for it to open but I found things to do to fill the time. Not necessarily productive things. But things. And eventually 10:00 AM arrived and the store opened. And that’s how I met Aaron. Side note: The Great Northern Bicycle Co. is in an old train station and is a pretty fantastic location.Oh, and speaking of location, I kind of glossed over the fact that my trek into Fargo was also a trek into North Dakota (aka. state number 8 of this tour). Once again, there was no grand (or not-so-grand) signage to mark the occasion.
When I had my bike overhauled before I started this journey, I only replaced the rear tire which was more than a little well worn. The front one, on the other hand, still looked to have quite a bit of life left on it so I figured I might as well get as much mileage out of it as I could (this morning that number was revealed to be about 2,500 km). I probably could’ve ridden it a bit longer but with services becoming further and further apart as I head west, it made sense to swap it out now. So I did. Well, Aaron made the swap. I was merely a witness.The brakes pads (which had taken to squealing a bit over the past few days) were also swapped out.
The necessary preventative maintenance was taken care of by about 10:30 AM and I was back on my way. The way in question wasn’t exactly the paved roads I was hoping for and a few times I opted to deviate from Google’s route in an effort to return to paved roads. Thanks Google.While most of today’s ride was heading west, there were a few occasions where heading south was needed. With the wind blowing from the southeast, those southern segments were more than a little unpleasant. Fortunately, the longest of those segments was only about 15 km. Of course, I say “only” after the fact. At the time it was a very challenging 15 km. From that point on though it was paved roads and generally favourable winds.
I ended up taking a lunch break at the end of that aforementioned 15 km segment in the town of Kindred where there was a pavilion with picnic tables. As has been well documented by now, those are two great things when you’re on the road. I made a quick stop at the gas station to top up my water bottles before hitting the road again. It wasn’t until then that I noticed my new front tire was significantly wider than my original one. My tire width for all my previous tours has been 28 mm. This new tire was 35 mm. My concern was that wider tires would be noticeably slower. I concluded that that was not the case since I didn’t even notice I had the wider tires until after at least 25 km of riding. And who knows, maybe they actually helped on some of those gravel roads. Fortunately, there were no further gravel roads after Kindred.
Today was by far the busiest day in terms of seeing other touring cyclists. Of course, that’s not really saying much since I’d seen VERY few on the road since I began this trip. However, today I crossed paths with two groups of two cyclists heading the opposite direction (we waved but didn’t stop to chat). Later, I actually caught up and passed a solo tourist – I think he actually kind of wanted to chat but I was really moving well at that point and really didn’t want to slow my pace. I felt a bit guilty about that but part of me thought we’d cross paths at the campground tonight. Spoiler Alert: We didn’t. Late in the day, I caught up with two other cyclists and, much to my surprise, I knew them. It was Christopher and Ryan who I’d first met at Martha and Geoffrey’s farm a few days back. Generally I’m not one to ride with others but I rode with them for a bit as we discussed our days on the road since our last meeting. Surprisingly, they had also started in Moorhead this morning but they had a much more ambitious day planned. When I caught up with them I only had about 20 km left in my ride. They still had about 90.While I briefly considered going further, I really didn’t feel the need or desire to. I was perfectly happy to settle into a campsite for the remainder of the day. So, as we neared the Little Yellowstone Campground we said our goodbyes, wished each other luck, and went our separate ways. It turns out I could’ve ridden with them another kilometre or so as Google’s directions to the campground were more than a little questionable. I got there. But it wasn’t as easy as it should’ve been.
The campground in question (aka. Little Yellowstone Campground) was set in a little bit of a valley and was very nice. It had a big open space for a soccer field and ball diamond. It only had four or five tent sites but they were all vacant – well, until I arrived anyway. There was no one on site to do the registration as it was one of those self-serve registration parks. So, I filled in my information, put my cash in the envelope, and went to setup for the evening.Setting up included another gourmet pasta dish courtesy of my alcohol stove. At some point (probably sooner rather than later) I’m going to have to find some more fuel for said stove. It burns methyl hydrate although in the US it’s called denatured alcohol. I’m hoping Bismarck, ND will have an outdoor door with such things. If all goes well, that’s three days away.
Today’s totals:
Distance: 129.78 km
Ride time: 6:08:18
Average speed: 21.14 km/h
Maximum speed: 48.07 km/h
The Day After Moorhead, MN
I feel good. I knew that I would. Okay, that’s not entirely true. Well, it’s true that I feel good. But based on my 2014 dehydration experience in Halifax, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a bit concerned as to how I would feel today. Adding to the concern was that I was a bit (maybe even a lot) chilled as I walked over to get some groceries yesterday evening – although, it was chilly evening … by my standards, anyway. Either way, I know chills generally aren’t a good thing.
Fortunately, I woke this morning feeling pretty great. I was more aware of my legs than usual as they were definitely feeling a bit different. But not tired. I actually think they felt stronger. I think it’s safe to say that I truly learned from my Halifax experience. I was drinking water a lot as I rode yesterday. And while my food stops were generally very short, I was actually stopping to eat. Even if just a CLIF bar. All of that combined to not only lead me to my longest ride ever but also to not leaving me physically incapacitated the next day. Or two.
From a reality check standpoint, I’m also under no illusion as to how many factors had to align to make yesterday’s ride possible. Not the least of which was the wind. Case in point, I just went outside for a brief walk and to get some air and the first thing I noticed was the wind direction. And it was from the north. There’s no way I would’ve even considered yesterday’s ride if the wind had been like it is today. There wouldn’t have been enough time (or energy) to even come close to Moorhead. Fergus Falls would’ve been tough enough.
As for today, it has been a polar opposite of yesterday. There has been no cycling and very little time outside. On the flip side, I’ve been working on my computer pretty much non-stop. I’ve been reasonably productive … I mean, I’m writing today’s update before the day is even over so I’m caught up in that regard. For fun, I took some time to compare some stats from previous rides to yesterday’s ride (yes, I know … sometimes my idea of fun doesn’t sound in any way fun). That said, I discovered that my 263.65 km day surpassed my previous personal best by 90.36 km (56 miles). That’s almost as much as what my daily average has been on this tour (i.e. about 92 km). That average has now jumped to a little over 100 km. As for the riding time, it was 1:32:14 longer than the previous long. As it happens, the previous long was August 27, 2014 – the day of the often remembered Halifax hydration mishap. See, stats are fun!
Admittedly, I haven’t accomplished everything I wanted to with some work related stuff which has me contemplating spending one more night in Moorhead. I’ll have to make that decision very soon.
As is probably pretty obvious, I was more than a little pumped and proud after yesterday’s accomplishment. And given how I feel the day after, I’m super happy today. Which is weird in its own way. But soon I’ll be back on the road and, as yesterday clearly illustrated, the kilometres behind me don’t really matter that much. Many more lie ahead.
Today’s totals:
None.
Not Bad For an Old Guy St. Joseph, MN to Moorhead, MN
After 23 straight days of riding, I was beginning to think about taking a rest day. Actually, I was thinking of it more as a day off than a rest day since I really didn’t feel like I needed rest – despite pedalling more than 2,100 km. Either way, there were some logistical things I needed to look into re: the coming weeks and doing so was just unlikely to happen after a day on the road. As such, I thought I might take a day off in Fargo, ND. Fargo was about 270 km (165 miles) away, so, based on my current rate of travel, that would be three days. Or two long days. The three-day option became my plan.
As mentioned previously, the trail that led me from St. Cloud to St. Joseph continues another 175 km to Fergus Falls. In between is Alexandria (about 100 km away) which became my destination for the day. I had no arrangements for accommodation and figured it might be my first wild camping experience of the tour. I’d worry about that when the time came.
The forecast for the day included winds from the northwest (you know, the direction I’m heading) in the morning before switching around to the south later in the afternoon. Based on that forecast it was almost tempting to wait until late afternoon to leave. But I didn’t. My day’s departure actually took place at 8:20 AM – after a great breakfast and chat courtesy of Stephanie.
Despite the forecasted winds, the reality was it was essentially a no wind morning. Obviously that’s not as good as a tailwind but I was perfectly happy with that situation. Plus, much of the day’s trail ride had some form a tree coverage which blocked any wind that was trying to do its thing. Between that and the beautifully paved and mostly flat trail, the ride to Alexandria was incredibly easy – you know, for a 100 km ride. I say “mostly flat” but there was a very slight incline but for the most part it only minimally affected my pace.
About 40 km into my ride it became evident that I was going to arrive in Alexandria in good time. Likely before 1:00 PM. With nowhere specific planned for accommodation (I really didn’t like the campground options) I started to ponder continuing on to Fergus Falls. Sure, that would make for a 175 km day but I thought I could handle that – so long as I paid attention to things like eating and drinking. The last thing I wanted was a repeat of my Halifax hydration fiasco. I figured, worse case scenario I could camp anywhere along the trail if I needed to. But I really felt Fergus Falls was a reasonable goal for the day. And that’s when I started to stretch the definition of “reasonable”.Not long after deciding to get to Fergus Falls today, another thought appeared. Could I make it to Fargo today? Immediately I thought, “Where did THAT come from?” And then my mind really started working. I started doing the math. Rate of travel. Distance remaining. Hours of sunlight. Terrain. Wind. These all needed to be considered. Fortunately, I had plenty of time to do that sort of consideration.
There were two potentially major factors in this crazy idea. The terrain and the wind. I learned that the slight incline I was experiencing on the way to Alexandria would become a slight descent not far beyond Alexandria. And then there was the forecasted winds that were supposed to switch around to the south later in the afternoon. The second factor was probably the most important but I had no way of knowing how it would play out until later in the afternoon. In my head I set a goal. If I make it to Fergus Falls by 5:00 PM I’m going for it. And so I pedalled. I made two brief food stops on the way to Alexandria before arriving around 12:30 PM. I planned to take a longer break there to rest up before resuming my ride to Fergus Falls. That break became even longer when I came across Big Ole. A giant Viking. Of course, I had to take a photo. Or two.By 1:30 PM I was back on the road, this time to Fergus Falls. A mere 75 km away. I could do that. Sure, I had already done 100 km but that seemed irrelevant. Clearly I could do 75 km in an afternoon. So that was my mindset. Past kilometres didn’t matter. Only the ones in front of me mattered. And so I pedalled.
Throughout that 75 km to Fergus Falls, I kept thinking about making it to Fargo. But that was ridiculous. It was silly to even consider it in the first place. But I kept doing the math. It would all come down to my average speed. Thus far on this trip, my average speed was a little over 21 km/h (13 mph). That was going to make things close. I knew sunset was at 9:11 PM. And I also knew that I would have at least a half hour after that before darkness would really start to set in. And so I pedalled.
As the day progressed, it was becoming more and more likely that I would reach Fergus Falls before 5:00 PM … you know, the cutoff time as to whether I would try to make it to Fargo. And sure enough, I did. With about 15 minutes to spare. A quick check of Google Maps revealed that Fargo was now 93 km away. If I could maintain 24 km/h for four hours I could beat the sunset. Of course, that didn’t factor in stopping for food. Yes, they’d be efficient stops but they’d still be stops. And the sun doesn’t stop … okay, technically the sun doesn’t move at all but you know what I mean. Bottom line, I didn’t have time to ponder what to do. I had reached Fergus Falls by 5:00. I was committed to riding further. And so I pedalled.
I should mention that there was also a secondary goal in the mix. Although, in this case, the secondary goal would come first. Given the kilometres that were already behind me (i.e., 175 km) I was now pretty much at my longest day ever. I’d heard of people doing 200 km in a day but that just seemed excessive and unnecessary. It probably still is. But as I left Fergus Falls I was only 25 km from a 200 km day. Even if I didn’t make it to Fargo, that would be quite the day.
A funny thing happened as the afternoon wore on. The weather forecast turned out to be right. Very right. The insignificant northwest winds from the morning had indeed become stronger and had shifted south. I now had a tailwind. And I was going downhill. Not a steep descent but a descent that made pedalling almost effortless. So effortless that the average speed of 24 km/h over the first 175 was a distant memory. I was now comfortably pedalling along at close to (and sometimes over) 30 km/h. It was blissful. And about 40 minutes after leaving Fergus Falls I had officially pedalled 200 km for the day. I HAD to stop for a photo of that. Again, it was a quick stop. Yes, my progress was going well but I still had 65 km to go.Five kilometres later, at the next town, I stopped at a gas station for another food and drink break. It was a much needed break. I was starting to fade a bit and as much as I wanted to reach Fargo, I wasn’t about to foolishly push on and power through. So this stop was a bit longer. And it made a world of difference. Yes, I still had 60 km to go but that seemed manageable. Again, it didn’t matter that I had already done 205 km. I could do 60 km in an evening. Especially when being aided by a seemingly endless descent and and a very helpful wind. The freshly paved road didn’t hurt matters either. My speed continued to be around 30 km/h (and my average speed for the day had climbed over 25 km/h). Side note: I was very much focused on reaching Fargo but I was also very much aware that I didn’t have any accommodation arranged. As such, part of my stop included a quick search of motels. I didn’t book anything but at least I had some potential destinations.
Fast-forward a couple of hours of wind-aided and descending pedalling when I was faced with the reality that I would not reach Fargo on this day. And I was more than okay with that. I COULD’VE reached Fargo today but that really would’ve only made things more complicated. Instead, I stopped in Moorhead, MN – a mere 5 km from Fargo. And, more importantly, where some motels were. Had I actually biked into Fargo I likely would’ve ended up biking back to Moorhead for lodging. Bottom line, this was a great day.
The motel I ended up at is pretty basic but, again, it has what I need. Plus they even gave me a discount after finding out how far I had just pedalled.
The remainder of the evening was spent making sure I was well nourished and hydrated – I even took some hydration salts, just in case. Yes, I travel with those now. I did some groceries (including a variety of fruit). I got some pizza (which was pretty bad compared to Gary’s). And I relaxed.Not only had I surpassed the 200 km threshold – something I never thought I’d do … but I surpassed it by 65 km. Not bad for an old guy.
Today’s totals:
Distance: 263.65 km (by far a new personal best, previously it was 173.29 km)
Ride time: 10:21:40 (previous longest day was 8:49:26 (August 27, 2014 – the Halifax day)
Average speed: 25.44 km/h
Maximum speed: 41.24 km/h
Side note: Unrelated to the events of the day, it was 19 years ago today that Miata #2 was won. Where does the time go?
A Leisurely Pace Ramsey, MN to St. Joseph, MN
After last night’s fantastically quiet evening in solitude, I woke this morning to clear skies. Wind, from a not-so-favourable direction. But clear skies. You take what you get on the road.
The plan today was relatively simple: Get to St. Joseph, MN. About 100 km away. The plan was made even more simple as there was absolutely no urgency behind today’s schedule. Warm Showers host Stephanie had offered to host me for the night but she was going to be working a bit late so we had agreed upon an 8:00 PM arrival. Obviously, that gave me an abundance of time to get there.While time was certainly on my side, the weather was a bit less supportive. The wind certainly had no intention of helping me – as evidenced by my slow average speed on the day. Plus, there had been a recent trend of afternoon showers so I was hoping not to get caught up in that should that trend continue. So, I decided to hit the road at a reasonable hour (i.e., shortly after 9:00 AM) and hope for the best.
Given the leisurely schedule for the day, I set course for St. Cloud, MN. St. Cloud is about 10 km from St. Joseph but is a much bigger city so it has significantly more amenities, like Wendy’s. I figured if I’m going to have time to fill today, why not do so with a Frosty?
Apart from the wind, the ride to St. Cloud was pretty easy. There was a trail running parallel to the highway for much of it so navigation was pretty straightforward. Although, that didn’t stop the Google lady from frequently telling to me “Turn right then make a quick left” when the reality was “Go straight”. Side note: The challenges associated with GPS mapping and routing really make me think about self-driving cars. I just don’t see it happening for quite some time. I mean, the technology of the cars is one thing. Then there’s the infrastructure involved (roads, insurance, traffic, etc …). But then there’s the navigation of just getting from A to B. Admittedly, the fact that it works at all is pretty impressive. But it has a LONG way to go before I’d be willing to let go of the wheel.As I continued to pedal my way north (to the Grand Canyon?) I passed through Clearwater, yesterday’s potential destination, and I couldn’t help but laugh. Given how long it took me to get there today, I definitely would have been doused by the downpour of the previous day. Absolutely doused.
The rest of the ride went well and I valiantly fought the wind along the way until I arrived at Wendy’s around 1:00 PM. Yes, I still had seven hours to fill before meeting up with Stephanie but, seemingly right on schedule, the dark clouds were starting to appear. My plan seemed to be working out.
I ended up spending over an hour just chilling over a Frosty at Wendy’s. Seriously chilling. The air conditioning was definitely doing its job. Brrrrrr. As I stepped back outside and into the warmth, I quickly realized that I would be staying a bit longer – although staying outside in the warmth. The dark clouds that were previously in the distance had made their way to Wendy’s. I’m no meteorologist but a deluge was clearly imminent. I don’t know what that smell is that often precedes a big downpour but that smell was certainly in the air. And I wasn’t about to hit the road until those clouds passed.
The downpour did in fact come a few minutes later and lasted about ten minutes. Then it was gone. However, there were more clouds in the distance. Based on the winds, I figured I could make it to the library (a few kilometres away) before the next deluge. I did. I even had time to made a quick stop at a bread outlet for some cheap lunch supplies.I was planning on going to the library to fill some time and maybe do some blog updates but decided I didn’t want to leave my bike unattended. So, I used the WiFi for a bit (from outside) while the rain fell before preparing for the next legs of my journey.
The next legs included Dollar Tree and (sigh) Walmart. And both legs came with a deluge of their own. Although, not as heavy as the previous two. In both cases, I was under shelter when they hit.
Dollar Tree didn’t have the cookies I was looking for – I actually couldn’t remember the name of said cookies which made the search a bit tougher – so I moved on. On the flip side, Walmart had more than enough food supplies to restock my “cupboards”.
Despite having so much time to fill, the afternoon was passing surprisingly quickly. I decided to head to St. Joseph and fill the final few hours there. That way, if it rained I’d be that much closer to my day’s final destination.
The ride from St. Cloud to St. Joseph was incredibly easy as there’s a new (and beautifully paved) trail that runs the whole way. I would later find out that the trail continues all the way to Fergus Falls – a destination I figured to be hitting in two days. Anyway, the trail to St. Joseph is so new that Google doesn’t even know about it. Fortunately, I had texted Stephanie to update her on my progress and she told me about the trail as well as some of the local restaurants and such in St. Joseph.
Stephanie had mentioned that there were two pizza shops in town. I hadn’t given it much thought but I hadn’t had pizza since the journey began. Now that it had been mentioned, I suddenly had a craving. It turns out the two shops are right across the street from each other. I ended up choosing Gary’s Pizza and it was a VERY good choice. Seriously, I don’t know if it had anything to do with biking 100 km into the wind but that pizza was fantastic. It was a large (14″) and I ate the whole thing. Without effort.Eventually I made my way to Stephanie’s which completed my ride – a ride where I somehow managed to stay dry the entire time (well, sweat not included). I considered myself very lucky in that regard given the number of times it rained. I also considered myself lucky to be hosted by Stephanie as she was super friendly, welcoming, generous and easy to talk with.
At the risk of repeating myself (why stop now?), today was another great day.
Today’s totals:
Distance: 102.68 km
Ride time: 5:17:53
Average speed: 19.45 km/h
Maximum speed: 38.25 km/h
It’s Beginning To Look A Lot Like … Woodbury, MN to Ramsey, MN
When I woke this morning I only had a partial plan for the day. I had a general route but not a destination. I needed to figure that out in a hurry. The figuring out of things came through a process of elimination. I had sent out a Warm Showers request to someone who lived near Clearwater, MN. About 120 km away. Certainly a doable distance, even though I haven’t been doing such distances very often this year. Plus, there were reports of a tailwind so I wasn’t at all concerned – although those reports turned out to be more than a little inaccurate. Either way, concerns didn’t really matter as the host in question wasn’t available. In fact, he had broken his leg and was having surgery today. The crazy part is that he sounded genuinely sorry that he couldn’t help out with hosting. Just another example of how generous the Warm Showers community is.
My backup plan was a somewhat less conventional Warm Showers host in Ramsey, MN but it offered washrooms, water, electricity, and a place to setup a tent. As homes on the road go, that sounded like a good one. Plus, it was only about 70 km away which would end up being a pretty important factor as the day played out.After some morning conversation with my hosts and a delicious omelette by Becky, it was time to hit the road again. David rode out with me to the main road which made navigation much easier (and more trustworthy) than Google and Garmin. But from there I was on my own.
My route for the day would take me through St. Paul and Minneapolis. It had been a while since I’d pedalled through a big city and I really can’t say I miss it. Fortunately, The Twin Cities are pretty bike friendly and there were trails that got me through with minimal navigational challenges. Minneapolis actually has a LOT of trails through the city. It was certainly easier than getting through Detroit. Side note: I was actually a bit surprised at the friendliness (or lack thereof) of other people on the trails through the city. I mean, no one was mean or anything like that but I typically wave, nod, or in someway acknowledge other cyclists I pass along the way and there was a noticeable lack of response from the vast majority of them. Even glare-like looks. Many of the pedestrians also seemed to be offering that same glare rather than a more positive look. Oh well. I couldn’t concern myself with such things. I just pedalled on. And continued to wave.
When I first hit the road with David, the day was beautifully sunny. However, that changed as I worked my way towards Ramsey. Clouds moved in. For a while, I actually didn’t really notice. I just remember at one point thinking, “What happened to the sun?” Well, what happened to the sun was it got drowned out by a sea of clouds. Clouds that looked desperate to rain upon the earth below. I’ll admit, I really didn’t want to get caught in that while on the road. As such, I focused on the goal and didn’t really stop other than to confirm navigational instructions were still on track. It was to be a race against nature.
Thanks to the short distance scheduled for the day, it was a race against nature that I actually won and I arrived at my destination shortly after 1:00 PM. The location in question was Hansen’s Tree Farm. Yup, I was going to be camping at a Xmas tree farm. Add it to the list of things I never thought I’d be doing.My host, also named Mark, was not around (and I never actually met him) but his brother Dave happened to be working there that afternoon so he welcomed me to the farm and showed me around. And the farm was great. There were all the aforementioned amenities plus there was an Adirondack shelter which would provide ample cover if it did end up raining. And it did. A lot. And it did so about an hour after I moved all my gear under the shelter. It even waited until after I had my lunch at one of the many picnic tables on site. Timing is everything. There is no doubt I would never have made it to my originally proposed destination of Clearwater without getting soaked.
While the farm had everything I needed, it didn’t have much in the way of “office” furniture. Yes, there were plenty of picnic tables which I would’ve very happily used but none were sheltered from the rain. As such, I improvised. It would seem the bench in the shelter and an overturned garbage bin worked together very nicely. Yup, living the dream.The rain started somewhat mildly. More of a steady (maybe sometimes heavy) drizzle. But that was just the warmup act. Eventually, the skies opened and I was VERY happy to be under the shelter.
The shelter allowed me to get caught up a bit on some blog entries which had once again fallen behind. There was no WiFi access so I wasn’t able to actually post any of those updates but at least I’d have the bulk of the work done for when I was once again connected to the internet.
By the time I was finished writing, the rains had stopped and there were patches of blue sky making an appearance. It was shaping up to be a nice and quiet afternoon/evening. While I said “I was finished writing”, in reality I still had a couple entries to go. However, I find that I can only do three updates in a day before my brain becomes mush – well, mushier than usual, anyway.With the rain gone and still plenty of time left in the day, I decided to get the drone out for a few aerial shots of my home among the trees. Of course, that was only minimally successful because my home wasn’t particularly visible because of, well … all the trees. It was still fun to get the drone out again though.
Today’s totals:
Distance: 72.99 km
Ride time: 3:32:30
Average speed: 20.60 km/h
Maximum speed: 39.96 km/h