Vikings!

So I’d have to say my first real foray into “wild camping” was a resounding success. I had a completely undisturbed night and woke up around 5:30. I’m pretty sure no one really cared I was there but I didn’t want to overstay my welcome so I packed up early and was on the road before 7:00. Definitely my earliest start to date.

As mentioned yesterday, today’s goal was L’Anse aux Meadows – a viking settlement. The upside to getting started so early (at least it was an upside this morning) was that the wind was very moderate. Also, there was even less traffic than usual. The site is only open from 9-6 and as it’s only 40km from St. Anthony I didn’t really expect any traffic until shortly before 9 – and by then I expected to be close to getting there. For once, that plan actually played out.

I didn’t really know what to expect from L’Anse aux Meadows but I have to say it was pretty cool. I went on the guided tour and the guide (Clayton) was excellent. He grew up in L’Anse aux Meadows and helped work on the reconstruction of the settlement. In addition to the archaeological remains, they had reconstructed one of the structures to be a “fully functioning” unit – complete with actors living the roles of the vikings. When I first read about these “re-enactors” I had my concerns about it but they were really entertaining.

When you enter the house they’re there. Just doing daily life activities. You can interact with them and ask questions and they answer in the first person. It’s not like they’re playing vikings, it’s like they are vikings. No pillaging took place during the tour. It was pretty amusing. They seemed to be having fun with the whole thing.

I explored the area a bit more and took the long path around the site. It was very scenic. Eventually I found my way back to the Welcome Centre. I had some lunch – crunchy peanut butter on whole wheat bagels – and then by 2:00 I was heading back towards St. Anthony.

I made a not-so-quick stop at The Dark Tickle and bought a ridiculously overpriced jar of bakeapple jam. Actually, it wasn’t jam – I went with the seedless option which was “Bakeapple spread” – I also learned that jam is regulated by the government and it has to have a certain amount of sugar in it for it to be called jam. Who knew? Anyway, with all the talk around here of bakeapples (and having sampled some along the trails) I thought I’d support the local shop and help out my peanut butter while I’m at it. Side note, I also learned that a “tickle” is a narrow saltwater strait. Anyway, after that I resumed my trip towards St Anthony.

At this point I’d like to point out that any requests for photos you’d like to see need to be submitted at least 24 hours in advance. Just kidding. Well, sort of. Sorry Brad, there will be no photo of me with the polar bear. I was in St. Anthony yesterday and I was tempted to make a special trip today solely for the photo but the wind on the return ride had beaten me down. For what it’s worth though, I saw the polar bear yesterday afternoon – although I wasn’t at the Town Hall so I don’t know if they’ve moved the bear in question or if they have multiple bears. The bear I saw was on display at a mini-museum at Fishing Point Cove. Side note (again), the museum was pretty interesting – although, I did find the one taxidermy display a little disturbing. There were two coyotes fighting over a moose head. I had no issue with the coyotes but I have to say I felt a little bad for the moose. I mean, the coyotes were killed, stuffed, and then posed “alive” in the scene. The moose was killed, stuffed, and then still ended up dead – and decapitated. Poor moose.

Anyway, back to today … despite the resounding success of last night’s wild camping I ended up at a campground tonight. I think it will be my last. I avoided camping at Pistolet Bay because the provincial park fees are ridiculous and they have no services. So, I ended up at the Triple Falls RV campground and, well … I should’ve trusted my gut and returned to my wild camping location of last night. Live and learn.

I’m going to try to get an early start again tomorrow and hopefully avoid at least some of the headwind that I’m confident will be waiting for me (based on the winds from yesterday and today). I’m not sure how far I’ll get but I’ll at least be heading towards Gros Morne. I figure it’s still at least five days away. Weather update: It’s now raining. Hopefully it stops by morning or tomorrow will be really ugly.
Today’s Totals:
Distance travelled: 72.24
Time on bike: 3:51:07
Maximum speed: 50.04 km/h
Average speed: 18.72 km/h

It’s really remarkable the impact the wind has. Yesterday I was coasting down hills going 45 km/h. Today I was pedalling down hills going 25 km/h.